After the earthquake of 1755, Under the direction of the King Jose I’s chief minister the Marques de Pombal more than 400 calceteiros (stone cutters) set to work re-dressing the stone rubble that filled all of Lisbon. Carefully arranged into intricately distinctive mosaics (hills and valleys, signs of the zodiac, gardens, animals, geometric designs, sea creatures, etc) each area of Lisbon is marked by its own distinct design. The pavements are so smooth in places they appear varnished, and shine as though polished with wax. The square blocks are as deep as they are wide – marble and basalt blocks of black and white, lined up, cut at corners, organic, changing direction, inherently designed not only by the pattern in which they are laid, but by their impressions made by 250 years of walking, the grain of the marble, the gaps, the tight spots, the hand-cut and chiseled edges to each stone. Like walking on an endless quilt of tiny patches, the mosaic patterns change with every block. In today’s world of asphalt the calceteiros have dwindled to less than 30 throughout the city (due of course, to cost) and much of their craft is relegated to patch and repair work throughout the city.

I for one miss them already. I look forward to my next visit to the Sidewalks of Lisbon.